Checking Your Emergency Brake, what car reviews, An emergency brake, while a vital piece of automotive equipment, is never really thought about until an emergency happens. Considering how this particular piece of automotive equipment could save your life, or at the very least keep your car from rolling down a hill, it might be a good idea to check it every once in a while. Luckily, there are a couple of methods that anyone can use to check their emergency (or parking) brake. Here are the two best methods, one test that is quick (takes all of 5 minutes), and one that is more in depth. For your initial exam, I would suggest using the more in depth test, then proceed to the quick test later on for a periodic review of your brake.

In Depth Exam :

1. Lift. Loosen the tire lug nuts for the tires where your brakes are located (either the front or back). Raise up that portion of the car. Preferably you should use a car lift, but if you need to, use some car jacks. To maintain stability, also use some safety stands.
2. Tires. Finish removing the tires from the car. Do this the same way you would when changing the tires on your car.
3. Check. You should be able to see the brake pads or drums relatively easy. Have some one else reach into your car and engage the emergency/parking brake. When it is engaged you should see either the drums or pads move, this is good. You want to see them move, if you do not then you need to adjust your emergency brake connections.
4. Finish. Replace and reconnect the tires and lower your car.

Quick Test:

1. Hill. Find a hill. It does not have to be particularly large, just one with a pronounced slope.
2. Roll. Stop the car at the top of the slope and place your car into neutral. If you car does not immediately start to roll, you might have to put it into gear just enough to get it to move.
3. Brake. Once you have the car rolling, engage the emergency brake. You should stop (often rather abruptly). If the emergency brake does not stop the car, use the regular foot brake.
4. Consider. If necessary, do a more in-depth exam of the emergency brake where you can make any needed adjustments.

Car Engine Repairs : Replacing a Battery, what car reviews, Replacing a battery is one of the easiest and most common auto maintenance tasks. That being said, just because it is one of the most common and easiest tasks, does not make it any less dangerous. When performing any type of automotive maintenance, you should take some basic safety precautions, especially when you are working with electricity.

Materials and Tools:

* Adjustable wrench
* Wire brush
* Proper automotive battery
* Rubber gloves
* Clean cloths
* Water (clean)

Steps:

1. Remove. Locating the old battery under the hood of your car. You should see two terminals, or posts, one colored red and the other black. The red post is typically the positive ( ) and the black one is usually the negative (-). Remove the keys from the ignition and then remove the cables from the battery terminals. Disconnect the black one first, then the red one. Remove the battery. If it won\’t come out, look for any clamps that might be holding the battery in place. Remove them and you should be able to lift the battery out.

2. Clean. If the battery tray appears to be dirty, use some clean water and the wire brush to clean it. Always wear rubber gloves to protect your hands from any battery acid that could be on the tray. Dry everything off. You don\’t want to put a new battery into the tray if it is still wet.

3. Replace. Install the new battery by reversing what you did in step 1.

4. Dispose. Take your old battery to an automotive supply store. They often have the proper methods for disposing of used batteries and do it either for free or a minimal charge.

Fixing Your Windshield Wipers, what car reviews, If you turn on your wipers and they don\’t work properly, there are a couple of things you can check. The first rule, however, is to be safe: If you turn on your wipers and they are not cleaning your windshield so you can see out properly, signal and pull over to the side of the road. It is easier to solve the problem if you aren\’t trying to dodge traffic or worrying about other vehicles you can\’t see very well.

If you tried to turn on your windshield wipers and neither one of them came on, then it is possible you\’ve blown a fuse. Take a look in your vehicle\’s fuse box and see if you can locate the fuse that controls the wipers. Replace it with a fuse of the same rating and see if your wipers start working again.

If your wipers still don\’t work (neither one of them moves), then it is possible that some control circuit or the wiper motor itself needs replacing. Check with your local auto repair shop to see if they can test and repair the wipers.

If you try to turn on the wipers and only one of them moves, there is a good chance that the cause is a loose wiper arm nut. On most cars, wiper arms are secured to the motor rod through the use of a securing nut. If you look at the base of the wiper arm, you may see a plastic cap that can be removed. Slip a small flat-blade screwdriver under the edge of the cap and pry it so that it pops open. Under the cap you should see a nut that fastens the wiper arm. Tighten this nut using an adjustable wrench, and try your wipers again. If they work properly, then you can replace the cap over that covers the nut. If they don\’t work properly, then you\’ll need to visit your auto repair shop.

The most frequent failure of windshield wipers is that they don\’t move smoothly across your windshield and remove all the rain or snow there. If this is the case, then you will probably need to replace the wiper blades. These are inexpensive and can be purchased at any auto parts store. Check the guides inside the store, and they will let you know the proper blades to get for your car\’s make, model, and year.

Replacing wiper blades is generally straightforward and can be figured out by looking at the blades that are already on your wipers. Check the instructions that came with the replacement blades as well, as there may be some special directions for the new blades. Normally it only requires a small screwdriver and loosening or fastening two small clips.

Replacing Disc Brake Rotors, what car reviews, After you have replaced the brakes on your car a few times, you may notice that there is a little damage to the rotors. If you have noticed this damage, then it is time to fix it. Replacing disc brake rotors is as simple of a process as replacing the brake pads. Since it is any easy job, why not do it yourself, and give you something to brag about?

Materials needed.

* Brake rotors
* Lug wrench or tire iron
* C clamp
* Bungee cord
* Carburetor cleaner
* Jack
* Jack stands
* Allen wrenches
* Hammer
* Adjustable wrench

If you notice, you are going to be using the same tools as when you change your disc brake pads. Begin by doing everything that you would to change the disc brake pads, up until you have removed the pads. From this point on, you are going to be doing a few extra things.

1. Remove. Typically the rotor is a separate mechanical entity from the hub. So to remove the rotor, all that you need to do is remove the rotor from off of the lug stands. In order to do this, you might have to remove an additional set of screws or pins, or whack (GENTLY!) with a hammer a couple of times. If the rotor and hub are one piece though, you are going to have to first remove the grease cup, then the cotter pin and castle nut from the axle in order to remove the rotor.

2. Replace or resurface? If you have the available funds, then I would suggest purchasing some new replacement rotors. While it is definitely more expensive, it does allow longer life for the part. If you are reluctant to pay the higher cost of a new part, or simply unable to, then you might want to look into getting the rotors resurfaced. Resurfacing or \”turning\” a rotor can greatly extend the life of old rotors, and is usually a much more economical solution. Before making your final determination though, you should have your rotors examined by a professional at any auto parts store, and they can tell you which would be a better option for you.

3. Install. To install your new or turned rotor, you can simply do the reverse of what you did to remove the rotor in the first place. Be aware though that most new rotors come prepackaged in a layer of oil that is going to need to be removed. To remove the packaging oil simply washing this off with carburetor cleaner, and wipe away.

4. Reassemble. Reassembly of your wheel assembly should be an easy task, since all you need to do is the same steps as when you change the brake pads on your car. Be sure that you thoroughly test out everything before you begin driving your car on the roads again then feel pleased with yourself since you have replaced the rotors on your car!

Replacing a Fuel Pump, what car reviews, The single most important part of any vehicle is the fuel pump. When this part goes bad, no matter what else you may have working on your car, the vehicle is going to quickly starve of gasoline and no longer be able to go anywhere. While the project is a moderately challenging one, replacing a fuel pump is a project that anyone, not only the professionals, can undertake. That being said, there are a few things that you should gather together before you begin.

* Replacement fuel pump
* Flat head and Philips screwdriver
* Fuel catch, large
* Socket set
* Colored markers
* Masking Tape
* Open end wrench set
* New fuel line
* Fire Extinguisher

Once you have gathered together all of your materials and tools, you are almost ready to begin. All that you need to do now, is ensure that you are working in an area that is well ventilated and free from danger of sparks. Gasoline fumes are highly flammable, and as such the utmost caution needs to be used when working with them, hence the fire extinguisher.

Next, if you have an electric fuel pump, then you are going to need to release the pressure that is in the lines. To do this, you simply locate the fuel pump fuse in your fuse box, and while the engine is running pull the fuse out. This allows the engine to die using the last of the fuel that was pressurized in the line, while also cutting the power to the pump.

Now, after you have relieved the pressurized lines, you are ready to remove the pump itself. The pump should be enclosed in a black insulating sleeve and mounted directly under the car, held in place with only a couple of bolts. Disconnect those bolts, and allow the pump to drop down a few inches. You are not going to be able to remove the pump until you have completely disconnected everything. Prior to disconnecting anything though, you should mark everything with color coded tabs of masking tape and colored markers, while marking the new fuel pump with corresponding tags. This is going to help ensure that you hook everything up properly which is going to save time in the long run.

Once you have marked everything, proceed with disconnecting the fuel lines. Place your fuel catch under the pump to help limit the mess and fire hazard. Now, simply use a small screwdriver to help remove the hairpin clamps if necessary. Place all connecter clamps in one location, to avoid them getting lost or misplaced. You are now ready to begin the final step in removing the fuel pump. You now need to disconnect all the wires that are attached to the pump. Again, before you disconnect any of these wires, make sure that you have marked them so that you can easily tell where everything is supposed to go. After you have disconnected all the wires, go ahead and remove the pump, and place it in the fuel catch to drain.

Finally, once you have removed the pump, you can start installing the replacement. To do this, all that you need to do is the reverse of the removal. This is where all the marked tags are going to come in real handy. Congratulations, you have now completed the replacement process.

Replace Brake Drums, what car reviews, Replacing drum brakes isn\’t difficult but it does require special tools and a mistake could kill you. This article will describe the general process but you should consult a repair manual for your brand and model car. It is not recommended that you attempt to repair your own brakes. This article is for educational purposes only and hopefully will convince you that the price charged by a trained mechanic is well worth it.

Materials and Tools:

* Chisel
* Grease (white lithium is best)
* Hammer
* Vice grips
* Pliers
* Sealable container
* Brake spring pliers
* Brake retainer tool
* New brake shoes
* Jack
* Safety stands (Jack stands)
* Screwdriver
* Small pry bar
* Goggles
* Gloves (latex or similar)
* Dust mask

Project Steps:

1. Prepare. Choose your site carefully making sure that it is sturdy and level and not on grass or dirt. Locate where your car\’s brakes are located (front or rear) and loosen the lug nuts on the tires. Jack up one side of the vehicle and place a jack stand under the car in the appropriate location. Repeat on the other side. At this point, put on your gloves, goggles, and dust mask. These items are to protect you from the asbestos that is the brake pads.

2. Remove wheel. Remove the wheels. Keep all the parts associated with that tire, or side, in the same location so they won\’t get lost or mixed up. Work on only one side at a time so that you can use the other as a model. Also, since you have the car ready for it, check for cracks or leaks in the brake line.

3. Remove brake drum. The process for removing the brake drum is a little different for front and rear driven cars, but not too different. For either type, remove or bleed about half of the brake fluid into a container. This will allow you enough \”play\” to be able to work. For rear wheel drive vehicles, look near the wheel studs for a round clip. If these studs are still there, remove them (since they are only there for assembly purposes, not safety). Then remove the drum. For front wheel drive vehicles, need to remove the bearing cap and wheel bearings first the slide the drum off. Remove the shoe return springs and then the anchor plate. To get the anchor plate off you will need to remove the adjuster cables and the adjuster lever. Disconnect these first from the secondary shoe, and then the primary. You should notice the shoes spreading outwards. At this point, it you can remove the shoe pads, since all that is left to disconnect is the parking brake cable(s).

4. Install. Thoroughly clean the area by removing any major dirt and grime. Lubricate the connectors with the appropriate brake lube (usually the grease mentioned in the parts list). Reconnect everything in the reverse order that you disconnected it, while using your other wheel as a model.

5. Test/Adjust. Replace the brake fluid you removed with some new fluid. Never try using old brake fluid! Pump the brakes several times until they are back to normal tension. This step will remove any air bubbles that might be in the brake line. When you think you have removed all the air, have a friend look at the brakes to make sure they are properly opening and closing as you pump them.

6. Replace wheels. Replace the wheels and lower the car. Drive around the block a few times, slowly, to get used to the new brakes and how they affect the car.

Replacing a Tail Light in Your Car, what car reviews, Replacing a dead bulb on your car is almost as easy as replacing a light bulb at home. Perform this simple maintenance and avoid the hassle of receiving a citation for a missing brake light.

There\’s no need to go to a costly mechanic when you can do things yourself, right? Well with these steps you can change a blown taillight, reverse light or brake light on your own. With a little elbow grease and know how you will be on your way.

* Before replacing the tail light, you need to gather a few things. They are available at any auto repair shop if you don\’t already have them.
* Soft cleaning cloths or washcloths.
* Rubber gloves (you are going to be working with electricity, so safety is important).
* A complete screwdriver set and automotive light bulbs. If you don\’t know what kind of light bulbs to get for your car, just ask the clerk of any auto parts store. As long as you know the year, make and model of your car you can get any part you need.

Once you have all these parts, you are ready to begin.

1. Remove cover. The cover of your tail light could be either the rear light assembly or as simple as a covered hatch in the trunk of your car. For the entire assembly types, remove the screws that are holding it in. If it is a hatch in the trunk, look for a plastic cover near where the light assembly is located. It is probably secured with knobs, tabs, or screws. Remove them and open the cover. Set aside the screws in one location so you don\’t lose them.
2. Remove bulb. Remove the bulb by pushing in and twisting. It should pop right out.
3. Clean connection. Use the cloths to clean the socket and the metal area around it. You don\’t often get a chance to clean this part of the car, most people simply forget about it. Cleaning it out like this is going to help ensure that you have a good connection as well as ensuring that the bulb puts out a nice, bright light.
4. Replace bulb. Insert the new bulb by pushing in and twisting at the same time. Be gentle so that you don\’t break the bulb and hurt yourself.
5. Replace cover. Replace the cover by reversing the process outlined in step 1. Use the screws that you set aside then.
6. Test. Have a friend stand behind the car to be your testing partner. Step on the brakes a few times, and while your foot is on the brake, place the car into reverse. This will test all the various lights on the assembly to make sure that they are all working

Tips Washing Your Car, what car reviews, By not having your car washed and waxed properly and regularly that will decrease the average fuel efficiency of your car by about 7%. Considering that the cost of gas seems to be rising on practically a daily basis, every little bit that can help reduce the amount of money you spend on gas is something that should be embraced.

Washing a car is fairly simple. Here is a list of what you should have on hand before you begin.

* Large soft, lint free cloths or wash cloths, sponge
* Chamois
* Water hose
* Car wash soap
* Old clothes
* Two large buckets

Washing your car is going to take a few hours, so be sure that you can dedicate the time that is needed to properly accomplish the task.

1. Prepare. Get your water ready. In one of the buckets place a small amount of the car washing soap, roughly one or two capfuls. Fill the bucket about � of the way to the top. Fill the other bucket with plain water.

2. Rinse. Using either the hose, or a washcloth and your rinse bucket, rinse off all the lose dirt and grime from the car.

3. Wash. Work your way around the car, starting on one side. Work up a lather with the soapy water and one of the washcloths or a sponge. As you are working the soap into a lather, be sure that you are using soft, gentle pressure to avoid causing any damage to the vehicle\’s paint. You want to work on only one side at a time to avoid the soap dry ing you can rinse it off. If that does happen, simply wet down the dried area and rinse the soap away.

4. Rinse. Once you have \”soaped\” up an area of the vehicle, rinse the area with either the hose, or through the use of more washcloths and some clear water. Make sure that you have completely rinsed off all the soap to avoid the soapy, dirty mess dry, taking more time to clean.

5. Dry. After completely rinsing off all the soapy water, take the chamois and begin to dry the vehicle. As you are doing this make sure that you are using only a gentle and steady pressure. Work from the top down, using circular motions. This is ensures that you do not have any spotting after you have finished.

Cleaning Auto Carpets in Your car, what car reviews, Cleaning the carpets in your car or truck is not something that has to be left for the professionals anymore. It is now something that you can do, as long as you have a few simple items, some time, and the will. By taking on this project yourself, you can save yourself some time and money.

Materials:

* Carpet Cleaning System (i.e. Rug Doctor, etc.)
* Fan/hair dryer
* Cleaning Solvent
* Towel
* Sponge
* Wash cloth
* Spray bottle
* White vinegar
* Soapy water
* Foam fabric cleaner
* Hydrogen peroxide
* Paper towels
* Hard plastic spatula

As you go about cleaning the carpets in your car, keep in mind that you are going to basically be using the same steps whether you are cleaning the mat, or the carpet themselves. The biggest difference is that if you are cleaning the mats, you want to remove them from the car, simply because it is easier to clean that way. After you have gathered all of your materials, you are ready to begin.

Your first step is to remove any residue from the stains. If the stain is fairly fresh, meaning still wet, then you should try to use your paper towels to try removing the stain by using a blotting motion. In the event that it is a little older, then use your spatula as a scraper. Do not scrape too hard, so that you don\’t tear or rip the fabric.

Next, you are going to start with the gentlest possible cleaning solution first. Harsher solvents, or cleaning solutions may bleach, or fade, the carpet in your car, so it is always better to try the gentler one first, and work your way up. Begin with some soapy water, and spray it onto the stained area of the carpet. Let the water and soap sit for about 15 minutes, then wipe away with either a damp sponge or wash cloth. If your carpet is stained with something that is oil-based, like crayons, use your solvent cleaner. If you do use your solvent cleaner, make sure that you follow the directions closely. If you would rather use a home made cleaner, a good one is to use a cup of hydrogen peroxide mixed with 3 cups of water. Spray it on to the stain, being sure to let it sit for ten minutes. Rinse away with a mixture of a cup white vinegar, and a cup water.

For those really tough, ground in stains, why not try to use something like the Rug Doctor machine. Follow the directions, and you are going to get professional results. Whatever method that you use, you are going to want to make sure that the carpets are completely dry, since you do not want to have any mildew or mold infestations grow in your car. The best way to make sure that everything gets completely dry is to use either a fan or a hair dryer.

Tuning Up Your Car Yourself, what car reviews, It is highly recommended that your vehicle get a tune up (which is also known as a major service) every two years, or every 30,000 miles depending on which comes first. While this task is something that needs to be done regularly, you don\’t need to pay someone else to do it. Tuning up your car yourself is something anyone can do, and here\’s how.

Materials needed:

* Fuel filter
* Complete screwdriver set
* Oil filter
* Air filter
* Transmission oil filter (
* Spark plugs
* Spark plug gapping tool
* Distributer caps
* Car repair manual
* Ratchet & socket set
* Adjustable wrenches

Process:

1. Fuel Filter. Unless you have a fuel-injection system, you need to replace the fuel filter. Fuel-injection systems do not need fuel system cleaning but it wouldn\’t be out of line to go ahead and replace the fuel filter.

2. Spark Plugs. Change your spark plugs every 30,000 miles unless you have platinum spark plugs. When you are changing these, take a look at the wires and the connectors as well.

3. Belts. While you are rooting around under the hood, take some time to look at the belts. If and when you see any that are worn or damaged, replace them.

4. Distributor/Ignition. If you have an older car that does not have an electronic ignition system (typically anything prior to 1980), take a look at the ignition timing sequence. This is covered in a repair manual for most vehicles. At the same time, replace the distributor cap and the rotor as well (if your car has them since some of the new vehicles have what is known as a distributorless ignition system).

5. Air Filter. Typically a vehicle needs to have its air filter changed every 15,000 miles. One of the best times to take care of this is when you are tuning up your vehicle.

6. Fluids. Check the fluid levels including the oil, brake, transmission, and wiper fluids.

7. Battery. Look at the battery posts and the connectors to ensure that there isn\’t any corrosive buildup. Also make sure that all of the connections are tightened properly and that the battery\’s fluid level is where it should be. Add some distilled water if it is not. If you have a sealed battery, you don\’t need to check the fluid level.